Hunters have been using elevated platforms to gain a hunting advantage for centuries. Though the first commercially available treestand was not invented until the late 1940s—designed after sniper nests used during the Second World War—the market has since exploded.
There are three ‘traditional’ stand types commonly used today: hang-on, climbing, and ladder stands. These are all large and heavy to varying degrees and, though they have their utility and use, come with drawbacks that don't suit many modern hunters or hunting styles. I wrote an overview of all common stand styles that you can read HERE.
Enter the true mobile hunting system: saddles. While hang-on and climbing stands are offered in 'lightweight' versions, they can't match the inherent weight and mobility in saddle hunting systems.
Saddle hunting utilizes a few key pieces to ensure a stealthy and mobile experience: saddle, platform, lineman's belt, tree tether, and climbing sticks. While a few other additional accessories can be used to fine-tune your system, such as ascenders and dump pouches, they are not necessary.
The saddle allows you to hang freely from a tree while you are supported by a platform that resembles a micro hang-on stand. You achieve elevation with climbing sticks and use the rope systems to control your stance as well as keep you safe.
With so many moving parts, saddle hunting can be daunting at first introduction. Speaking from experience, once you get the hang of it, your process will become second nature.
Parts of a Saddle System
Saddle: The piece for which this whole system is named, the saddle is the primary focus and most essential part of your mobile hunting kit. Many manufacturers produce multiple models of saddle with their own bells and whistles, but they all follow the same structure: a flexible fabric seat attached to a tree via various rope systems. The saddle generally includes thigh straps and a rope bridge, while accessory attachment points on the exterior are also common. The rope bridge connects across the front of your hips and is the primary attachment point for your tree tether. The saddle is designed to be worn as you walk to your hunting location, rather than be put on once you arrive at your tree. This allows for a very mobile and adaptable hunting experience - the driving focus of using a saddle kit.
Lineman's Belt: The lineman's belt keeps you close to the tree while you climb, allowing your hands the freedom to attach climbing sticks and your platform. It attaches to both sides of your saddle and can be easily adjusted via the included prusik knot or ascender systems. You will wrap the lineman's belt around your tree at the base and use it until you attach your tether once you are on your platform at the top.
Tree Tether: The tree tether is the second of two rope systems that you will need when saddle hunting. Once you get settled onto your platform, you will loop your tether around the tree (the general recommendation is to do this starting at eye level) and then onto the rope bridge of your saddle. You will then tighten the slack on your tether until it is supporting a significant portion of your body weight and holding you in a comfortable standing position on your platform. You can use the prusik knot or ascender device to adjust your position.
Climbing Sticks: Climbing sticks have been around for quite some time, so many of you will already be familiar with them. They allow you to climb your tree of choice by using 'teeth' and an attachment strap/rope to keep them tight against the tree. They can be used in conjunction with step aiders to extend their climb height. Many models are offered in both metal and carbon iterations. Many people strap them to their backpack to hike to their hunting spot - a task which is made easier by the fact that most sticks stack within each other. How many sticks you use is determined by your own preference and how far you want to climb—the general quantities are three or four.
Saddle Platform: The platform is the base of your saddle kit and can essentially be described as a micro version of a hang-on stand. Platforms fold up for easy packing, and many are no larger than the footprint of your boots. In most cases, you will have enough room to stand with some movement side to side in most cases. They usually attach to the tree in a way similar to your climbing sticks, and their teeth keep them securely anchored to the tree.
Ascender: The ascender comes in a few forms of the same basic idea. A rolling, toothed wheel allows rope to be moved with one hand - an improvement over the standard prusik knot you will find in many instances. You can use them on your rope systems - primarily your tree tether - for added ease of use in the woods. These are not necessary, though.
Dump Pouch: Like the ascender above, dump pouches are technically unnecessary but make life a lot easier when you're climbing and settling in the tree. They will attach to your saddle body and allow for quick, one-handed access to rope and accessory storage. These will help to keep your system clean and quiet.
Knee Pads: The third of the unnecessary accessories, knee pads have only one job. They provide relief and comfort when you are resting your knees against the tree - something you will most likely do on those longer sits.
Back Bands: These are exactly what the name implies: bands for your back. They can provide relief and comfort for longer sits and offer lumbar and upper-back support when necessary. They easily attach to your saddle and weigh next to nothing.
Step Aider: Step aiders are small but useful pieces of your kit. Generally appearing as Amsteel rope with loops on either end, they attach to the bottom steps on a climbing stick and hang down, allowing you to get extra steps out of your climbing stick.
Why Use a Saddle?
Saddles, when compared to your traditional-style tree stands, provide a few key benefits that increase your overall adaptability in the field. As I touched on above, your mobility and potential for stealth will be greatly improved.
A saddle setup will pack down onto your person better than any number of stands might. This means the amount of weight you pack in, and your overall footprint when hiking, will be decreased. This allows for more controlled, intentional walks that won't compromise your position or cause heavy breathing to set in too quickly.
On top of the packability, setting up and tearing down can be done quietly and efficiently. This allows you to move mid-hunt to another location with ease - no heavy, metal stands clanging around.
The largest mobility benefit, though, doesn't take place on the ground. No, you will feel the greatest increase when you are in the tree. The ability to essentially 'swing' around a tree gives you shot opportunities you might not have been able to achieve in a standard stand, and in the same way the saddle will allow you to stay hidden behind your tree with ease.
As far as comfort and longevity are concerned, the modularity and adjustability of saddle systems ensure you can remain comfortable in your tree for a full day's sit. Optional accessories like knee pads or back bands can help here, too.
The level of inherent comfort depends on the specific brand and model of your saddle. Various saddles offer extra back support, split seats, cushioning, etc., but in all cases you will be able to move your torso and adjust your bridge to keep from going numb while also eliminating pinch points.
Though saddle systems utilize more pieces and moving parts than any tree stand, they do not take long to acclimate to. The process of climbing with your lineman's rope and then switching to a tether might seem confusing and complex at first, but after a few climbs up and down, you'll be able to do it in the cold dark of the morning no problem.
Are There Drawbacks?
As with everything, you don't take without a little give. Saddles thrive in certain scenarios, but they might not be the best choice in others.
To start, saddle setups can be complicated. Though mastering them can be done in quick order, there are no guarantees. Frustration and confusion can lead to blown hunts, exhausted muscles, and safety concerns - when used correctly, saddles are a safe hunting solution.
Next, safe and effective saddle hunting requires practice. Any 'Joe Six-Pack' can sit in a ladder stand or hang-on and efficiently use a bow or rifle to hunt. Shooting in those conditions won't be too different from a practice range or your back porch.
Saddles, though, are a different story. They require you to put in dedicated time and effort to understanding how to hunt while using one. Do not buy a saddle kit two days before the season starts and head out into the back country. You may live to regret that decision and we want to give you the best chance for a successful hunting experience.
There are also physical requirements to use a saddle that other hunting systems simply do not require. In order to effectively deploy a saddle system, you will need to be in decent physical shape and be prepared to utilize core strength both during the climb and while in the saddle.
In addition, saddles are not necessarily designed for use in trees with many small branches or that have extreme lean. The sticks and branches can get in the way of your increased mobility as well as interfere with the use and adjustment of your rope systems while leaning trees can lead to closed shooting lanes and unconventional shots. Ideally, you are looking for straight trees with high canopies as these will provide you with the best climbing experience.
Get at least a few months under your belt before taking a saddle into the field. Practice the climbing, setup, and teardown until you get the hang of it. From there, start to shoot your bow. Shooting from a saddle requires extra intentionality and balance when compared to shooting on the ground - that hard work will pay off.
What About One-Sticking?
You might think that saddle hunting is limited to just that - saddle hunting. But leave it to the dedicated mobile hunting crowd to take it to the next level. While standard saddle hunting is the most common and easiest approach, the alternative, and more extreme, method is one-sticking.
'One-Sticking', as it is aptly named, refers to the use of a singular, modified climbing stick and a tether system to cut weight and maximize packability. This eliminates your lineman's belt as well as all but one of your climbing sticks - and potentially even your platform. Depending on your belt, model of stick, and choice of singular climbing stick, that can turn out to be a significant level of weight saving.
In one-sticking, you begin with your tether, set as high as you can manage while on the ground, and then place your stick on the tree. You then begin the repetitive climbing process: climb your stick, move your tether up, move your stick up, climb your stick, move your tether up, etc. This repeats until you are at your desired height.
Some hunters opt to use their platform when one-sticking, some do not. The alternative to the using a platform is to utilize specialized one-stick climbing sticks. Some climbing sticks can be altered to include a small platform in place of the top steps, while some companies offer dedicated one-stick climbing sticks. A good example here is the TrophyLine Wingman Platform.
Tips and Tricks
Saddle hunting advice comes in all shapes and sizes. Some swear by certain products and tactics, while others wouldn't be caught dead doing what that other person recommends. 3-sticks vs 4-sticks vs one-sticking. Minimalist saddles vs ultralight saddles. Prusik knots vs ascenders. The inclusion of dump bags, stick holsters and other 'unnecessary' accessories. Everyone is going to hunt differently.
However you saddle up, below are tips that can help get you through your first season - or tenth - a little easier.
- I know I mentioned it above, but tip #1 has always been and will always be the tried and true, "Play the way you practice." Don't practice shooting your bow from the ground and then separately practice climbing in your saddle. You want to put yourself into shooting positions you are bound to face in the field - this means grab a target, throw it 30 yards out, get into your saddle, and take dozens of shots.
- An underrated, but important tip: always be intentional about bending at the hip when hunting in your saddle. This is true for any inclined shooting, regardless of your stand choice. You want to keep your torso/upper body consistent regardless of shot angle. If you bend in your arms, neck, and shoulders rather than your lower back, your shot process, hold, and shot will all be inconsistent and ineffective.
- Use a rope/carabiner/holster for your sticks and platform while ascending. One-handed access to your climbing devices makes the whole process simpler and take less time.
- Keep it CLEAN. Organize your pack and system before heading out into the woods and you will be thankful you did. There is nothing worse than fumbling around with knotted ropes in the dark.
- There is no one-size-fits-all height to attach your tether to the tree. The recommended starting point is about eye-level, but you can easily alter this. Find the height where your weight is evenly distributed between your platform and your saddle. This will provide you with the highest level of comfort and reduce strain with time.
- Use the tree to your advantage. Hang-on stands, climbers, and ladder stands are all pretty immobile when it comes down to it. In a saddle, however, you can alter your position to mask movements and increase your stealth when your target comes into view.
If you're looking to shake up your stand system for next season, or looking to upgrade parts of your current saddle setup, you can check out all of our saddle-hunting gear HERE.
